To Slick50 or Not Slick50!
- Thread starter eljudo
- Start date
the most important things for long engine life are high quality oil and filters and most of all DON'T OVERHEAT ENGINE,overheating brakes down oil and removes it lubrication properties,which cause engine wear. All additives are mostly only to coat metal parts so there are not dry start up where most engine wear happens, Slick 50 ,durolube stp, are all for that reason......Keep regular oil changes with good oils and filters and should not have a oil caused problem,,,Warning the biggest reason auto trans fail is because of being stuck in snow or mud, the atf heats up loses it lubricating properties and still reads full when checked, but is not lubing rite, change atf at least every 50000k and more often if stuck in snow,
Oil Change ( The vehicle type that is )
You cant do any better to your engine than change the oil and filter
even before the suggested manufacturers usual time frame of
3000 miles or 3 months.
With my car that I race as soon as the oil starts looking dirty
out it goes......these are the contaminants in the oil that wear
down your bearings and metal surfaces because they are full
of acids and contaminants from the combustion process.
Oil is still relatively cheap and is good insurance for a healthy
engine. Geez just think if we only got our oil changed once every
three months......shivers !!!!
As far as the aftermarket oil additives are concerned what the others
above have said is pretty much it.
Although Lucas oil products makes a very good line of additives
for different applications.
.............QM'r
You cant do any better to your engine than change the oil and filter
even before the suggested manufacturers usual time frame of
3000 miles or 3 months.
With my car that I race as soon as the oil starts looking dirty
out it goes......these are the contaminants in the oil that wear
down your bearings and metal surfaces because they are full
of acids and contaminants from the combustion process.
Oil is still relatively cheap and is good insurance for a healthy
engine. Geez just think if we only got our oil changed once every
three months......shivers !!!!
As far as the aftermarket oil additives are concerned what the others
above have said is pretty much it.
Although Lucas oil products makes a very good line of additives
for different applications.
.............QM'r
auto trannies die due to heat ... problem is, they are cooled by running lines to a small part of the radiator which is meant to cool the engine -- unfortunately, the average operating temperature of most engines is exactly high enough to fry your auto-trans even if you never get stuck in snow.mick_eight said:
most of the damage done to auto-transmissions happens while simply sitting in traffic ...
rather than paying for additives, invest in a good stacked-plate cooler for your transmission (the tube-fin ones are garbage) and DON'T run it back through the radiator! it just picks up the heat from the rad and same problem all over again.
i have one that is rated for motorhomes, but cost the same as one rated for my car, so i get more cooling (and more ATF in the system) for the same price.
as for car engines, either change the oil often and use a good quality dino oil or less often and use a good quality synthetic oil. in either case use a good oil filter.
A friend of mine went to a seminar on oil types,he was told the only difference is the syn is re refined to remove more impurities. I would only use in a new engine and stick with it. If you put high detergent oil in a engine that had low before ,you could be asking for trouble, it loosens deposits and can plug passages
there's not a single reason to slick50, other than succumb to some marketing hype, eujoe: what specific reason/remedy are you trying to cure/prevent?
over at BITOG forums, there is a high consencious (spelling?) on a product called Auto-Rx, it is an ester based gentle engine deposit cleaner. Is this the direction you may be trying to go?
as for the sythetics, Esso XD3 0w30 is THE price/performance issue product to use, it has the americans drooling - they don't have it!! At about $4.00/l for a full syn with characteristics similar to the famed german castrol 0/30 at over $7/l, can't be beat!
over at BITOG forums, there is a high consencious (spelling?) on a product called Auto-Rx, it is an ester based gentle engine deposit cleaner. Is this the direction you may be trying to go?
as for the sythetics, Esso XD3 0w30 is THE price/performance issue product to use, it has the americans drooling - they don't have it!! At about $4.00/l for a full syn with characteristics similar to the famed german castrol 0/30 at over $7/l, can't be beat!
I have tried both Slick 50 and Duralube.
There were absolutely no noticeable difference. I would not waste my money with these two products again.
Mercedes Benz and BMW, among other manufacturers, all say that aftermarket additives are not required nor recommended for their engines.
The US military conducted a study and found these products to have negligible benefits if any.
There were absolutely no noticeable difference. I would not waste my money with these two products again.
Mercedes Benz and BMW, among other manufacturers, all say that aftermarket additives are not required nor recommended for their engines.
The US military conducted a study and found these products to have negligible benefits if any.
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All those so called additives or "snake oil" are a sham. Like someone mentioned before they do absolutely nothing and could do harm to your engine. Even racecars that promote these items do not use them. An older additive (think it was STP) claimed similar things to these and what it actually did was made your oil into a almost molassis like stuff, not good in my eyes.
If you want to do something good for your engine consider different oils. Not all oil was created equal. Many different brands have different properties. Redline, Amsoil, have different properties that I have seen and tested for myself but they are expensive. Synthetic and regular oils are also quite different and can have different applications.
D
If you want to do something good for your engine consider different oils. Not all oil was created equal. Many different brands have different properties. Redline, Amsoil, have different properties that I have seen and tested for myself but they are expensive. Synthetic and regular oils are also quite different and can have different applications.
D
STP was invented by Andy Grannittli, also known as Mr 500,In 50s when speeds were getting much faster, transmissions were blowing up. Andy mixed up a batch for transmissions and it worked, because it STICKS to gears at high RPM. The main advantage to these additives is that they prevent dry bearing start up, where the majority of wear happens.They don't drip out when engine is shut down. STP mixed with oil also makes a good engine assembly oil. Oil comes in different grades and different additves and the proper type must be used to maintain maximun engine life. Oil needs to be changed due to conditions.and use, with the recomandations to be used only as a guide, Stp will work for some engine conditions ie. worn valve guidesf or awhile ,but they are all not going to repair anything,don't waste your money on this stuff.....Buy good oil [I use GTX} and good filters{AC] and change often at least every 5000k
Some better info
Stay away from all aftermarket additives!
You simply do not need them and you surely don't need the problems they may cause with your engine. If your still not convinced then think about this statement:
The major oil companies, including AMSOIL, are staffed with the, bar none, some of the best chemists, scientists and engineers the world has to offer. Now, don't you think that if they determined that their motor oil was lacking an additive that they would blend it in their additive package? They obviously have the technology and resources and the financial backing to do it. Then why don't they? The answer is simple: They are not needed!
How can it be that some fly by night additive manufacturer can have a miracle, cure-all additive without knowing the chemistry of the oil it will be used in? The answer is, they don't. They simply are out to get your money by using false and deceptive advertising to appeal to your desire to have what they are selling in your engine. They are masters at marketing, not science chemistry and engineering and I would equate them to nothing more than snake oil companies. Thank goodness for the FTC that is actually doing what it is supposed to be doing; protecting the consumer and going after these companies and hopefully put them out of business.
Without going into extensive detail here's what you need to know about aftermarket oil additives: There are basically two types of additives used, either Teflon based with PTFE (like Slick 50) or Chlorinated based (like Dura Lube) with some type of carrier, usually a paraffin based carrier or other mineral oil. Some have extremely large amounts of moly, zinc or phosphorus, all extreme pressure agents which are detrimental to a motor oils proper function in the amount that they use.
Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine. Teflon must be heated up to about 800 deg. F to get it to stick to anything for friction reducing purposes, just like the Teflon on a frying pan, yet in your engine all those suspended microscopic colloidal Teflon particles do is gradually attach to you oil pick-up screen and reduce oil flow to your critical components as well as reducing the oil flow in other critical internal engine passages by attaching themselves to the passageway walls. In addition, as your oil filter filters out some of these suspended Teflon particles, your filter flow rate will be reduced which may eventually become restricted and default in to by-pass mode, which means unfiltered oil will be flowing through your engine.
Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of teflon, moly, zinc or phosporus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts. Get the picture? That's it in a nutshell.
The bottom line is: When using a properly formulated motor oil you do not need any additives whatsoever and additionally, the additives you may put in can react negatively with the additives the oil company carefully blended in. The major oil and additive companies are some of the richest and most powerful companies in the world, and they certainly can afford to hire the top chemists that know how to properly formulate a motor oil (this is not to say they make a quality motor oil; just that they know how to properly formulate one to perform the functions it was designed to do and meet the required specifications). Then these additive companies pop up claiming to perform miracles with their outrageously priced snake oil. Do yourself a favor and stay away from aftermarket oil additives, regardless of how appealing the bogus claims they make in their advertising are!
What if They Have a Test To Show How Their Additive Works?... Read On...
At a recent trade show we were at one of these miracle oil additive companies was there with a machine that demonstrated how their additive reduced friction. It was a motor with rotating solid steel disc secured to the motor shaft and a torque meter with a flat piece of steel mounted on the torque arm. They put every type of oil on the market, one by one, on the machine & pressed hard on the torque meter and at about 20-40 lb-ft torque the torque arm would stall the motor....that is until they cleaned it off & tried their (chlorinated) additive "IXL" on the bearing & ran the test.
People were amazed as the meter peaked out at 140 lb-ft. torque and still didn't stall the motor. We knew what was happening but many unsuspecting consumers were eating it up and standing in line to buy the additive. The next day we showed up with some Head & Shoulders Shampoo disguised in an oil bottle & had the IXL additive people try it on their test machine. The operator was amazed as the motor just barely stalled at 140 lb-ft. The operator says that's pretty good stuff, what is it? We said Head & Shoulders. He was quite embarrassed to say the least. Head & Shoulders has high levels of high potency ZINC in it that attaches itself to ferrous metals. Coke soft drink will do exactly the same thing. ZINC reduces friction and provides anti-wear protection and is present in most motor oils at a much reduced level. Now, would you put Head & Shoulders in your engine?
Additionally, the test machine was measuring EXTREME PRESSURE. Motor oils do not have extreme pressure additives blended in like gear lubes do nor do they need extreme pressure additives. Their is absolutely no need for EP additives in a motor oil. A gear lube would not stall the motor as easily because gear lubes have high levels of Extreme Pressure additives blended in, but do you think they would test their IXL additive against gear lubes? Heck no! They use motor oil....They are comparing apples to oranges & tricking you into buying their additive. Same theory holds true for Slick50, Prolong, Dura Lube, Motor Up, Valvoline Engine Treatment and many others. Please DON'T be fooled by oil additives. They simply are not needed and can be detrimental to the proper function of a motor oil.
Stay away from all aftermarket additives!
You simply do not need them and you surely don't need the problems they may cause with your engine. If your still not convinced then think about this statement:
The major oil companies, including AMSOIL, are staffed with the, bar none, some of the best chemists, scientists and engineers the world has to offer. Now, don't you think that if they determined that their motor oil was lacking an additive that they would blend it in their additive package? They obviously have the technology and resources and the financial backing to do it. Then why don't they? The answer is simple: They are not needed!
How can it be that some fly by night additive manufacturer can have a miracle, cure-all additive without knowing the chemistry of the oil it will be used in? The answer is, they don't. They simply are out to get your money by using false and deceptive advertising to appeal to your desire to have what they are selling in your engine. They are masters at marketing, not science chemistry and engineering and I would equate them to nothing more than snake oil companies. Thank goodness for the FTC that is actually doing what it is supposed to be doing; protecting the consumer and going after these companies and hopefully put them out of business.
Without going into extensive detail here's what you need to know about aftermarket oil additives: There are basically two types of additives used, either Teflon based with PTFE (like Slick 50) or Chlorinated based (like Dura Lube) with some type of carrier, usually a paraffin based carrier or other mineral oil. Some have extremely large amounts of moly, zinc or phosphorus, all extreme pressure agents which are detrimental to a motor oils proper function in the amount that they use.
Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine. Teflon must be heated up to about 800 deg. F to get it to stick to anything for friction reducing purposes, just like the Teflon on a frying pan, yet in your engine all those suspended microscopic colloidal Teflon particles do is gradually attach to you oil pick-up screen and reduce oil flow to your critical components as well as reducing the oil flow in other critical internal engine passages by attaching themselves to the passageway walls. In addition, as your oil filter filters out some of these suspended Teflon particles, your filter flow rate will be reduced which may eventually become restricted and default in to by-pass mode, which means unfiltered oil will be flowing through your engine.
Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of teflon, moly, zinc or phosporus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts. Get the picture? That's it in a nutshell.
The bottom line is: When using a properly formulated motor oil you do not need any additives whatsoever and additionally, the additives you may put in can react negatively with the additives the oil company carefully blended in. The major oil and additive companies are some of the richest and most powerful companies in the world, and they certainly can afford to hire the top chemists that know how to properly formulate a motor oil (this is not to say they make a quality motor oil; just that they know how to properly formulate one to perform the functions it was designed to do and meet the required specifications). Then these additive companies pop up claiming to perform miracles with their outrageously priced snake oil. Do yourself a favor and stay away from aftermarket oil additives, regardless of how appealing the bogus claims they make in their advertising are!
What if They Have a Test To Show How Their Additive Works?... Read On...
At a recent trade show we were at one of these miracle oil additive companies was there with a machine that demonstrated how their additive reduced friction. It was a motor with rotating solid steel disc secured to the motor shaft and a torque meter with a flat piece of steel mounted on the torque arm. They put every type of oil on the market, one by one, on the machine & pressed hard on the torque meter and at about 20-40 lb-ft torque the torque arm would stall the motor....that is until they cleaned it off & tried their (chlorinated) additive "IXL" on the bearing & ran the test.
People were amazed as the meter peaked out at 140 lb-ft. torque and still didn't stall the motor. We knew what was happening but many unsuspecting consumers were eating it up and standing in line to buy the additive. The next day we showed up with some Head & Shoulders Shampoo disguised in an oil bottle & had the IXL additive people try it on their test machine. The operator was amazed as the motor just barely stalled at 140 lb-ft. The operator says that's pretty good stuff, what is it? We said Head & Shoulders. He was quite embarrassed to say the least. Head & Shoulders has high levels of high potency ZINC in it that attaches itself to ferrous metals. Coke soft drink will do exactly the same thing. ZINC reduces friction and provides anti-wear protection and is present in most motor oils at a much reduced level. Now, would you put Head & Shoulders in your engine?
Additionally, the test machine was measuring EXTREME PRESSURE. Motor oils do not have extreme pressure additives blended in like gear lubes do nor do they need extreme pressure additives. Their is absolutely no need for EP additives in a motor oil. A gear lube would not stall the motor as easily because gear lubes have high levels of Extreme Pressure additives blended in, but do you think they would test their IXL additive against gear lubes? Heck no! They use motor oil....They are comparing apples to oranges & tricking you into buying their additive. Same theory holds true for Slick50, Prolong, Dura Lube, Motor Up, Valvoline Engine Treatment and many others. Please DON'T be fooled by oil additives. They simply are not needed and can be detrimental to the proper function of a motor oil.
