Hot Water Underfloor Heating

[mercyshooter]

I've got a problem with the zone valve. But I don't know what the problem is.

All other good zones are at the lowest temperature (10C)

Settings: zone valve lever is at auto/close position, thermostat for this zone is at the highest (30C)
Situation: heat does get called and burner and pump are working good. However, no heat for the area that is in this zone, including the pipes. So, still cold zone.

Settings: zone valve lever is at manual/open position, thermostat for this zone is at the highest (30C)
Situation: the whole zone gets heat, including the pipes. So, yes, hot zone.

So, what is the problem and how can I fix it which can cost me 0 dollar?

Now, I would like to drain the whole system. How can I do it?

Thanks guys!

 

[Major2]

How many zones is your radiant heating system? Normally it's one zone per floor. Crank the thermostat up on all floors and feel the out going pipes for each zone and after a few minutes. They should be warm. If the pipe to the zone that your are refering to is still cold, usually it's the switch (or I think you're calling a "zone valve lever")...it looks like a silver box where you can adjust the heat flow. Replace this switch, it's pretty easy to do.

 

[mercyshooter]

So, you are suspecting the zone valve lever? Logically speaking, motor problem is the highest chance in this case.
I may be wrong. So, I ask you guys for help.
Like I said, logically, it shouldn't be the lever.
Anyways, thanks for input!

 

[Major2]

I'm just going by my experience because it sounds like you have the same problem that I did....having a cold zone and inconsistent temp within the zone. The first thing I did was flush the system out (cause air bubbles in the line can give you problems) and when that didn't work I changed the "valve switch" to the zone. Then it worked.
If you think it's the pump (motor), then you should have problems with all your other zones as well. But I'm not sure what your system is like, I'm just going by how my house is setup.

 

[icemanmp1]

id say its the zone valve..... does the zone open when you turn the t stat up?? like does the manual lever become loose???

i would replace the valve and the guts inside the zone valve.... 99 to come out... about 300 for the zone valve and flush the lines.... plus tax of course.....

have a nice day!!!!!!! heating man i am......

 

[mercyshooter]

I'm just going by my experience because it sounds like you have the same problem that I did....having a cold zone and inconsistent temp within the zone. The first thing I did was flush the system out (cause air bubbles in the line can give you problems) and when that didn't work I changed the "valve switch" to the zone. Then it worked.
If you think it's the pump (motor), then you should have problems with all your other zones as well. But I'm not sure what your system is like, I'm just going by how my house is setup.

Oh I see!

 

[mercyshooter]

id say its the zone valve..... does the zone open when you turn the t stat up?? like does the manual lever become loose???

i would replace the valve and the guts inside the zone valve.... 99 to come out... about 300 for the zone valve and flush the lines.... plus tax of course.....

have a nice day!!!!!!! heating man i am......

There is resistance on the lever!

 

[icemanmp1]

ok then it sounds like the motor in the valve is shot......would still replace the valve and the guts to make the whole thing brand new...is it a honeywell valve or erie one??? the older erie valves you actually had to cut out and resolder a new one in.. just my 2 cents...

one last question.. red pipe or greyish blue pipe.....gray blue pipe is poly b.... never a good sign..

 

[mercyshooter]

ok then it sounds like the motor in the valve is shot......would still replace the valve and the guts to make the whole thing brand new...is it a honeywell valve or erie one??? the older erie valves you actually had to cut out and resolder a new one in.. just my 2 cents...

one last question.. red pipe or greyish blue pipe.....gray blue pipe is poly b.... never a good sign..

Honeywell one! So just have to check the motor then? Doesn't matter about the pipe thing. Just need heat back to the zone.

 

[vancity_cowboy]

with a cheap multimeter and some know-how you should also check the thermostat. if it's not working then it can't call for heat on the auto setting and you can only make it work on the manual setting. always assume the least expensive thing is broken first, then work toward the more expensive stuff

logically it can only be the thermostat or the mechanical switch in the valve (i don't think it's a motor but i could be wrong) because the rest seems to work ok on manual

unless you have a very good reason for draining the system why would you do that? you will only introduce fresh oxygen into the system with the new water thus speeding up the corrosion of the cast iron or steel parts

 

[mercyshooter]

with a cheap multimeter and some know-how you should also check the thermostat. if it's not working then it can't call for heat on the auto setting and you can only make it work on the manual setting. always assume the least expensive thing is broken first, then work toward the more expensive stuff

logically it can only be the thermostat or the mechanical switch in the valve (i don't think it's a motor but i could be wrong) because the rest seems to work ok on manual

unless you have a very good reason for draining the system why would you do that? you will only introduce fresh oxygen into the system with the new water thus speeding up the corrosion of the cast iron or steel parts

It has been flushed for many years now.

 

[vancity_cowboy]

It has been flushed for many years now.

all i can do is repeat my question, and you should be getting a second opinion from a knowledgeable technician as to why you should be doing this. if algae growth is said to be a problem, there are reliable methods of chemically sterilizing the water that won't hurt the system, but fresh oxygen will hurt the system - that's why most systems use the red-coated tubing, the red stuff is oxygen barrier

 

[mercyshooter]

all i can do is repeat my question, and you should be getting a second opinion from a knowledgeable technician as to why you should be doing this. if algae growth is said to be a problem, there are reliable methods of chemically sterilizing the water that won't hurt the system, but fresh oxygen will hurt the system - that's why most systems use the red-coated tubing, the red stuff is oxygen barrier

Typo man! It should be "It hasn't been flushed for many years"

BTW, the system existed since 1992!

 

[icemanmp1]

take the t stat off and join the 2 wires together... if the zone opens.. its the t stat.....if not its the motor!!! ive been doing this for 15 years!!! im qualified... and greay pipe is bad for your system just look up poly butylene pipe.. on the internet.. youll see.... and yes chemical treatments to reduce the acid in the water will help save parts and money..

i dont know who you are vancity cowboy but you dont seem knowledgeable tech..

 

[mercyshooter]

take the t stat off and join the 2 wires together... if the zone opens.. its the t stat.....if not its the motor!!! ive been doing this for 15 years!!! im qualified... and greay pipe is bad for your system just look up poly butylene pipe.. on the internet.. youll see.... and yes chemical treatments to reduce the acid in the water will help save parts and money..

i dont know who you are vancity cowboy but you dont seem knowledgeable tech..

Actually I'm not sure what the real color is. The ones that are seeable and are connected to the copper pipes are definitely not red. It's been existed for at least 15 years now. As long as the pipes are good, doesn't wanna change. But, is there a way to use less energy to warm up the zones? My guess is you gotta flush the system regularly if the water in the system is already dirty and leave everything as it is.
How do you join the 2 wires together? Which 2 wires?

 

[icemanmp1]

remove the thermostat from the wall.. theres 2 wires...usually black and a white..... join then together to see if there is a spark....if there is...... and the zone does not open.. its the motor...remove the thermostat from the equation....assume it works.. unless the blub inside is broken....im assuming theres one in there... and its not broken... hope this helps.. if not pm me... also take the cover off the zone valve to see if the motor is warm when the thermostat is up....

cant give all my trade secrets away.... pm me if ya need more help..

 

[mercyshooter]

I'm wondering how the gears are attached. Are they side-by-side or stacked up?