Carman Fox

New Car Advice and Recommendations

Ray

Well-known member
Dec 21, 2005
1,253
346
83
vancouver
I have a 2010 CRV along with a couple of other cars. It is a little underpowered for most types of driving, and as a result, you have to rev the engine quite high to climb hills, or accelerate in traffic. The maintenance and reliability has been great though.

I rented a Ford Edge Sport and drove it to Kamloops and back. I really liked this, and in hindsight, should have bought this instead.
 

1nitestan

New member
Jun 18, 2013
778
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Man this has become more difficult than I anticipated.

I thought I'd be satisfied with getting another Forester. But then doing some research it seems it doesn't really matter if you choose a Toyota Rav 4, Honda CRV or Subaru Forester there are all relatively the same. Since I have only ever owned Japanese (Honda and Subaru), I was thinking maybe this next time around I'd go European like a VW Tiguan or Volvo X60/X70.

But then again I am hearing the same thing over and over again that maintenance on European vehicles can potentially bankrupt me.

However, I am growing tired of the price point quality of CRV, RAV 4 and Forester. Maybe it's time to move it up a notch. So question now is what's the most reasonably priced reliable SUV Wagon like European car out there?
OK, do you really need AWD/4WD? or the extra height/ground clearance? Chances are, all the modern ABS/traction control stuff is designed to handle 90% of all driving situations. If you do then, by all means stick w/ an SUV. If you don't, then.... by far the best euro "wagon" on the market is the VW Golf TDi wagon. I've driven the 2012 Jetta TDi and it's a wonderful car. Went to San Francisco on 1.5 tanks of gas. The turbo diesel is a smooth and torquey little motor. Tip into the throttle and it accelerates quickly. Nothing beats european driving dynamics. Asian cars are all a bit softer, but a euro car is firm and confidence-inspiring. VW's are actually relatively reasonable to live with from a financial standpoint as well. Over the long term they are pretty reliable. Most new cars have issues with electronics anyway, but the actual mechanical bits are time tested. It's really too bad the Tiguan doesn't come in a TDi otherwise that would be the benchmark car in the segment.

I would stay away from Volvo. As good as they are, sadly, the brand is getting less and less market share and it won't be long before Volvo ceases to sell cars in North America :( . It's a shame cuz they make some nice cars.

In the end, the best car for you is the one you feel best sitting in. Everyone's needs are different and preferences are unique. I'm a car nut so my usual requirements are different from most consumers. Friends ask me what the best/fastest/coolest car is...I always tell them to buy a Corolla/Camry. Save their money now so they can afford a Porsche 911 later.
 

storm rider

Banned
Dec 6, 2008
2,542
7
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Calgary
Whatever you get find out if the engine is a non-interference engine or an interferance engine.If it is a non-interferance engine you have no worries.If it is an interferance engine without a timing CHAIN pay CLOSE attention and adhere to the replacement of the timing BELT.If the timing BELT snaps on you the pistons will lash the valves leaving you with a $6000 repair bill to get the vehicle running again as the cylinder head will have to be completely rebuilt(valves/springs etc + labour)

I had this happen on a VW and it is essentially built in obsolecence....it is designed to break down at a certain milage...pretty shitty considering the Germans built tanks in WW2 to literally drive a million miles and they did.Quality fighting machines that were over engineered compared to American Shermans that were built to drive 30,000 miles max knowing full well they would be blown up before they drove 5000....but when you built 3:1 you got the advantage of numbers.

Long story short....know the engine of your vehicle and it's potential weak points.

SR
 

tokugawa

Member
Sep 8, 2005
487
3
18
Thanks guys for your opinions. Much appreciated.

Nissan Rogue might be an option.

But more likely I am probably headed towards a Volkswagen Tiguan Highline.

Heard from a friend who bought VW Golf 5 Door TDI that there was absolutely no negotiating at the dealer. They said that the Golf was so popular that they didn't need to offer discounts. I wonder if that's the same with the Tiguan.
 

IluvBackrubs

Member
Jan 27, 2013
253
1
18
High gas prices and the fact the Golf TDi is one of the very few affordable diesel options out there probably gave the dealers more clout. Not to mention a limited supply. With regular gas prices falling but diesel staying high, there may be slightly less demand for the TDi now though.

That said, the Tiguan is not exactly flying off the lots, so there may be room to negotiate in this ultra competitive segment.
 

westwoody

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2004
7,671
7,229
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Westwood
The last generation of the Toyota RAV4 with the V6 was far superior to the new version. A couple of friends have them and they are very nice.

If you can find a recent one in good condition take a look.
 

tokugawa

Member
Sep 8, 2005
487
3
18
I always sell my cars privately to take it out of the new car negotiation. I also pay a car broker to get me the car at fleet price. I've usually saved thousands on each new car purchase.

As far as the Suburu is concerned it seems like a good mid size SUV choice. When I went to check out SUV's a while ago that was one I considered. I can't recall why I went with another brand but liked the Suburu's test drive.

Edit to add: You can always get the dealer cost via a paid subscription to

https://www.carcostcanada.com/en/
Is using a broker the way to go? I guess it worth it to save the time and effort in haggling. I suppose the cost involved is worth it. Which broker did you use?

And for selling the car privately, I guess auto trader is the way to go? I have always done the trade in to avoid the hassle of dealing with potentially untrustworthy people. I always thought the tax savings you might get on a trade will offset any potential gains on a private sale. Plus my 11 year old car was appraised at 6K so I thought that was pretty generous but then again I haven't done any real homework until now.

Any thoughts on brokers, trade-ins and private sale would be much appreciated.
 

MissingOne

Don't just do something, sit there.
Jan 2, 2006
2,230
440
83
...a crass feeling pickup truck of some beer swilling blue collar yahoo.
I and my 1990 pickup truck feel slighted.

You have written a great comparison review though. Thanks!
 

steiln

Member
Feb 11, 2010
44
0
6
Take a look at the BMW X1, comes with regularly scheduled maintenance included. Despite what you may think, maintaining a BMW isn't all that bad cost wise I had my 645 for 11 years and it was a gem. Stay away from Audi, not a good repair record and very expensive to maintain. If you have to look at a North American car in that price range, look at Ford but personally I wouldn't touch them. I was an Honda and Acura person for years, great cars - take a look at CRV and RDX.
I rented one of these. thought it was a piece of junk
 

Penhold

Member
Feb 8, 2004
472
0
16
B.C.
NEW CAR REPLACEMENT INSURANCE:

If you are looking at buying a new car replacement cost policy, be aware there are is a very important and fundamental difference between the third party policies and the ICBC policy that neither the insurance brokers or car salespeople seem to understand.

If you buy the ICBC policy, it only covers replacement for first 3 years. BUT the policy provides if there is an accident and the damage is more than 50% of the value of the vehicle, the policy will kick in and ICBC will pay for a new vehicle.

If you buy any third party policy instead of the ICBC policy, it often covers replacement for longer (typically 5 years) BUT the replacement part ONLY kicks in if the vehicle is written off.

This is a critical distinction between the third party policy and the ICBC policy. The third party policy will NOT kick in unless and until ICBC actually writes the vehicle off. And ICBC will not write the car off unless the repair cost is more than the actual cash value at the time of loss.

In other words, assume you have a $50,000 vehicle and you are in an accident in the first year with $30,000 in damage. If you bought the ICBC policy, it will write off the vehicle and will pay for a brand new vehicle for you.

BUT if you did not buy the ICBC new car replacement policy, it will not write off the vehicle and, instead, require it to be fixed. Since it is not written off, the third party replacement policy will also not kick in. In which case you have no alternative but to have the car fixed - and good luck in trying to get anyone to buy it with that much disclosed damage!

If an insurance broker or dealer tells you the third party replacement policy will work if there's more than 50% damage and ICBC does not write off the vehicle, get it confirmed in writing and signed by them. You'll need that to sue them in future when you discover the fine wording in the policies proves otherwise.

Since the third party policy has certain advantages over the ICBC policy (e.g. 5 years vs 3 years), if you need protection longer than 3 years then seriously consider purchasing both policies. Otherwise, you may find out the hard way you are stuck with a $50,000 vehicle that over $30,000 in repairs. :(
 

badbadboy

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2006
9,544
306
83
In Lust Mostly
Is using a broker the way to go? I guess it worth it to save the time and effort in haggling. I suppose the cost involved is worth it. Which broker did you use?

And for selling the car privately, I guess auto trader is the way to go? I have always done the trade in to avoid the hassle of dealing with potentially untrustworthy people. I always thought the tax savings you might get on a trade will offset any potential gains on a private sale. Plus my 11 year old car was appraised at 6K so I thought that was pretty generous but then again I haven't done any real homework until now.

Any thoughts on brokers, trade-ins and private sale would be much appreciated.
I have used a broker in three transactions for higher end SUV and a couple of European Sports Cars. When using a broker, you pay $600 up front and they can get the car you specify for a substantial discount vs haggling with a dealer.

An associate of mine was going to go that route then decided to pay the on line fee to get the landed cost of the vehicle he wanted. Once he had that data, he started discussing it with a local dealer and they came down substantially in price to where they got their minimum profit and my associate got the car he wanted at a better price. I'd say he did quite well given he was after a $25,000 car. If it were a $50 or $60K car, I would go with a Broker.
 

curvecraver

New member
Jul 2, 2014
69
0
0
Richmond
haven't seen anyone mention a Mazda. I I've been driving my CX-5 for about 4 months and I effen love it. great on gas, decent interior, good value I think.
 

tokugawa

Member
Sep 8, 2005
487
3
18
Mazda CX5: lots of power, great handling. But the interior was almost as cheap as the Honda's. In fact, the center plastic part along the middle between the seats and leading up to the center console would vibrate and you could make it easily bend with your leg. The engine was buzzy and the road noise was the worst. Made for a cheap feeling car.
haven't seen anyone mention a Mazda. I I've been driving my CX-5 for about 4 months and I effen love it. great on gas, decent interior, good value I think.
It's rated number 2 in US News Best Cars: http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/cars-trucks/Mazda_CX-5/Interior/

But comments from Five-Guns-West are pretty passionate. It can be subjective but there may be some truth to what he says........ He's definitely tried out a lot of cars and I have taken his thoughts into consideration.

Though your input is also appreciated as well.
 
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87112

Banned
Dec 13, 2004
3,689
672
113
*&^%
Kia Soul. That little box can haul a lot for not much money. Some of these SUV are SO expensive.
 

curvecraver

New member
Jul 2, 2014
69
0
0
Richmond
I did notice the road noise for the first 2 or 3 weeks..now i dont notice it. I drove a stupid mini van for so many years this car absolutely rocks in my opinion. the pre buy research and test drives of various makes was a lot of fun, Good luck with it :)
 
Dec 7, 2014
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It's rated number 2 in US News Best Cars: http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/cars-trucks/Mazda_CX-5/Interior/

But comments from Five-Guns-West are pretty passionate. It can be subjective but there may be some truth to what he says........ He's definitely tried out a lot of cars and I have taken his thoughts into consideration.

Though your input is also appreciated as well.
When I evaluate a car's interior, I really go through it.

I look at all the seams and look for gaps that seem a bit too wide, because this is a sign of bad workmanship that could be the signal of things falling apart elsewhere or later.

I check the fabrics and look for pilling. In the new CX5 I was looking at, looking at the seat backs and headrest backs, the felt-like cloth seemed thin and was already a bit too fuzzy. It was sewn to make seams with the leather to cover the seats and the thread intervals were long and large - a sign of an economy job.

I check each vent and anything else that has a plastic (or sometimes metal) insert. I put my fingernail into where the insert meets the hole, for example, at the vents and I try to see if there's any wiggle. On the CX5 it was relatively tight. On the X1 it was tight, so in comparison the X1 was superior to the CX5. The CX5 was more like the CRV. The Hyundai and Kia were better, so in comparison, the CX5 and Honda were at the bottom of the pack in this criteria and virtually all other interior criterias. One car I did not mention in my review, because it was not an SUV, was a brand new Lincoln MKZ. Using just my fingernail, I managed to pry off each vent insert. I showed the salesman this and he was shocked and embarrased, then he took me to the door jam to show the build number of the car and it was in the thousands. That's a bad sign, and if I were to spend $40K of my hard earned dollars, I better not see that kind of crap.

I check the center stack that runs from the dash down to between the seats. Does it move when I put my hands on either side of it and try to wiggle it? On the CX5 it moved easily. On the drive it would vibrate visibly. The fact the engine was buzzy did not help in that regard. This matters to me because I like to know a car is well put together and I don't consider evidence of this well put together.

I grab the interior door handles and pull after the door is shut - do the interior door panels seem to move off the door? Is there any give? These things are only hung on with plastic tabs. If the tabs are cheap, the interior of the door risks loosening over time. I had a 99 volvo where the interior door panel sunk off the door itself because the tabs got brittle and eventually broke.

I check for the kind of plastics on the dash top, bottom, and on the door ledges front and back. Are they hard plastics? These days more and more cars are doing away with the hard plastics of the 90's and 80's and use soft-touch rigid plastic materials. Compare cars and you will see the difference. The CX5 had a lot of hard plastics, as did the CRV. The Subaru was horrible in that regard, being that it has quite an aged interior. The other SUV's were not like this. However I do think the CX5 interior design is attractive in the way it looks, but that's about the only good thing about it.

At stop lights I listen carefully to passing traffic. I am checking for noise levels. I want a car that is good at traffic noise isolation. The CX5 and CRV were terrible, and only the X1 was worse. These two were the bottom of the pack in that regard.

During drives I listen to engine buzz and road noise of the tires. The CX5 and CRV were bad at speeds over 40km/hr. Under full throttle the CX5 was horrible. Under full throttle the CRV was so annoyingly slow it didn't matter to me at all the engine buzz or road noise. Only the X1 under full throttle was even worse than the CX5. Together these cars were at the bottom of the pack on this criteria.

Having owned many many cars, my experience has been that over time interior parts getting loose gets worse not better. Noises also get worse over time. So if things start off bad, that's not good for a new car.

I found you cannot properly evaluate a car if you only drive one or two to compare. It really pays to take the time to go through many cars and check things in detail to get a proper perspective on what is good quality and how they rank among each other. Most people who get excited by the first or second new car they test drive and pretty much just buy that without checking out the competition. Doing so really opens your eyes. I encourage people to really check them all out and see for yourself.
 

MissingOne

Don't just do something, sit there.
Jan 2, 2006
2,230
440
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I'm going to stop reading reviews by automotive journalists and just look for reviews by Five-Guns-West.
 

westwoody

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2004
7,671
7,229
113
Westwood
Top Gear on BBC gives the only worthwhile reviews. At least they call a turd a turd.
The American magazines are too concerned with ad revenue to say anything bad.

Re the BMW X1, it is built to a price point but it is okay. Not great like an M5 but good for an economical mini ute.
 

curvecraver

New member
Jul 2, 2014
69
0
0
Richmond
wow FGW, to say you are thorough is a complete understatement. thanks for sharing your insight, the next time ill be buying with a different perspective. I knew how much i wanted to spend and started looking at all small suv's that fit. I felt for 28k +tax i got a cool looking, reliable,great mileage, SUPER fun to drive, AWD vehicle that is by no means perfect but suited what i was looking for compared to the other makes. I hope it serves me well for the 4 to 5 years Ill own it. As for the road noise issue, utilizing the decent sound system I usually drive with my music loud enough to eliminate most outside noise.
 

nickcan

Active member
Nov 6, 2011
704
61
28
In the end I chose the Nissan Rogue, the top model totally loaded with AWD for $37k. My second pick was going to be the Santa Fe, though the Toyota Venza had a deeply discounted price on it that made it hard to resist. I never forgot the Buick though, and went back to drive each and every one of their cars and I loved them all. Having owned the Rogue several months now I can still say I am very happy with my choice and the fuel economy has turned out to be very good especially for a vehicle this size and weight. It's still quiet, everything feels very tight, and it still feels like it has good power when I need it. I've taken a couple of long trips (8 hrs driving) and couldn't be more pleased with the feel of the vehicle.
I would never choose a lower end model (Rogue) and buy the fully loaded model. For me if I wanted to stick to a Nissan product I would take a base model Pathfinder or Murano instead.
For one thing you get more size (room), power (would never buy a 4 cylinder unless it was turbo charged) and safety (heavier and larger cars fair better in collisions).
Lastly you get little of your fully loaded vehicle back when trading it in. I tried dumping my one year old car a few years ago and told the salesman it has leather, heated seats, 6 disc changer etc, he says I don't care it's considered a SE model. That SE model also comes with cloth seats with little to no options.
 
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