Lath and Wire - removal - HELP

[Annalise Lane]

I'm trying to get the right tool to cut this board with a relatively clean line. The cut meets the at the ceiling, inside corner and one outside corner.

Grinder might work with a diamond blade ?

Dremol could work with a diamond blade.

Reciprocal saw might work with a steel blade, but it jumps around a lot, either because I'm not strong enough or tall enough to get the right angel. The blade bends easily when placed into anything and then your cut is wonkie. It also starts smoking; is this normal ?

There are enough men on this site who are probably handy that hopefully could give me some guidance. PLEASE

 

[Jethro Bodine]

How big of a board? Width and thickness?
How much room do you have to work?
I ask because if there is enough space and the board isn't too thick, which if you're cutting through lath it isn't, you might be best to use a hand saw.
Specifically a back saw. A back saw is normally used with a mitere box to make angle cuts before everyone went to mitre/chop saws.
You would need to get a good ladder so you can get up there to do it.
Another option might be a jig saw with a very fine blade.

Hope this helps.

 

[Annalise Lane]

How big of a board? Width and thickness?
How much room do you have to work?
I ask because if there is enough space and the board isn't too thick, which if you're cutting through lath it isn't, you might be best to use a hand saw.
Specifically a back saw. A back saw is normally used with a mitere box to make angle cuts before everyone went to mitre/chop saws.
You would need to get a good ladder so you can get up there to do it.
Another option might be a jig saw with a very fine blade.

Hope this helps.

The jig saw handle would get in the way of the edge to edge cut ? I know I can take off the guard, but can I angle it in towards the ceiling for a clean FLUSH cut ?
Inch to an 1.5" thick

No room to work between the ceiling and the top of the wall. Some jack ass removed the interior of the wall to make an interior window for viewing on a structural wall. The wall has been framed out again, but their 'handi work' has left a jagged edge at the top. For me to fix it, I could strap the 2x4s with 1/2 " drywall to build the wall out then put the new wall board up against the corners and ceiling. This will work with little physical investment, however that will leave me with a 1/2 " protrusion at the door frame. Though we are replacing the doors and frames, doing it this way would be a 1 x 1 pine blocking.

sigh

 

[Sleepmonger]

A grinder with a diamond blade and the saftey guard removed would likely work, which would be pretty much the same as a really large dremol. If I'm understanding your cut right I've done similar cuts with a grinder when installing residential windows. It makes a horrible mess though, and will cover the entire room with a thin film of dust. It also requires a pretty steady hand and eye to get a straight line. You wont be able to do the entire cut, and will have to finish the corners with wire cutters and a chisel but it's not difficult.

A skill saw would give straight lines and be safer and easier, but odds are you wont be able to get it into the space you wanted.

I couldent imagine doing it with a reciprocating saw, unless you were cutting through the entire wall.

 

[Jethro Bodine]

The jig saw handle would get in the way of the edge to edge cut ? I know I can take off the guard, but can I angle it in towards the ceiling for a clean FLUSH cut ?
Inch to an 1.5" thick

No room to work between the ceiling and the top of the wall. Some jack ass removed the interior of the wall to make an interior window for viewing on a structural wall. The wall has been framed out again, but their 'handi work' has left a jagged edge at the top. For me to fix it, I could strap the 2x4s with 1/2 " drywall to build the wall out then put the new wall board up against the corners and ceiling. This will work with little physical investment, however that will leave me with a 1/2 " protrusion at the door frame. Though we are replacing the doors and frames, doing it this way would be a 1 x 1 pine blocking.

sigh

You keep talking like this and I just might have to propose to you.

 

[Annalise Lane]

Impossible for me to visualise what you are trying to do but it sounds like you have to make a cut tight to the roof\ceiling?

A picture uploaded would help but a skil saw with a cut off blade would maybe work as the blade is closer to the side. The guide might get in the way though. Sometimes the long way round is easiest. Meaning take it apart, make a cut, reassemble

7' grinder with a cut off (Zipcut) might give you enough reach.

Reciprocals are tough to control as you noted. Not made for fine cuts. Only way to some what control them is to put the heel hard on the surface with weight on it and go slow. Even then tough to do

Zipcut instead of a diamond blade ? hmmmm .... Can I do this with a 4" grinder ?

A grinder with a diamond blade and the saftey guard removed would likely work, which would be pretty much the same as a really large dremol. If I'm understanding your cut right I've done similar cuts with a grinder when installing residential windows. It makes a horrible mess though, and will cover the entire room with a thin film of dust. It also requires a pretty steady hand and eye to get a straight line. You wont be able to do the entire cut, and will have to finish the corners with wire cutters and a chisel but it's not difficult.

A skill saw would give straight lines and be safer and easier, but odds are you wont be able to get it into the space you wanted.

I couldent imagine doing it with a reciprocating saw, unless you were cutting through the entire wall.

A reciprocal saw

I find dremols a waste of money, grinders do more for less, IMO

You keep talking like this and I just might have to propose to you.

Oh yeah So you wanna bend me over and talk shop ?

When installing a rubber membrane on a 1/4" slope/ft for a 5'x7 shower base it's always wise to leave an 1/8" to 1/4" at the framing stage to tuck your membrane into, it gives a cleaner corner instead of rabbit ear'ing them.

or

I have a 32" wide shower pan that extends into two separate spaces, old construction 1940s and new construction 1960s the roof joists on the old construction are 16 on center, but the new construction roof was constructed of ( Blank ) I can't find a joist to save my life so I'm crippling the wall onto the other across the top to make the wall secure, and because of this now have to add a light in the shower ~sigh~

---------------
Are you horny now ? hehehe

 

[Sleepmonger]

I find dremols a waste of money, grinders do more for less, IMO

Agreed, dremol blades never last and cost so bloody much.

 

[Jethro Bodine]

When installing a rubber membrane on a 1/4" slope/ft for a 5'x7 shower base it's always wise to leave an 1/8" to 1/4" at the framing stage to tuck your membrane into, it gives a cleaner corner instead of rabbit ear'ing them.

or

I have a 32" wide shower pan that extends into two separate spaces, old construction 1940s and new construction 1960s the roof joists on the old construction are 16 on center, but the new construction roof was constructed of ( Blank ) I can't find a joist to save my life so I'm crippling the wall onto the other across the top to make the wall secure, and because of this now have to add a light in the shower ~sigh~

---------------
Are you horny now ? hehehe

I just JIZZED in my pants!

 

[the old maxx50]

Pictures would help
You say lath and wire .but it sound like an inside wall if you are dry walling

How long of section because the quickest might be just knock off the plaster with a chial .Then you dont need a dimond blade or mosonary .
Then you all so could chisal off the lath with a new sharp chisal
Even if it was stucco i would use a chisal all those other power tools make dust all over and cant fit that good up in a corner
All was a bout whaf tool fits ;-)

 

[Sleepmonger]

Ya know, I could probably win any "Worst Handyman" competition, even against the blind, but this post really turns me on.
Too bad my door is so wickedly crooked I can't open it to run over to your place right now!

Hey, your inbox is full.

 

[Annalise Lane]

I just JIZZED in my pants!

I opened up the floor joists between the top unit and the floor unit to discover, joists running north/south 16" on center and 14" below that joists running east/west. With a support been sandwiched together 6ply, (6, 2x12) with tongue and grove floor panels running opposite to the top layer of joists. (oh lets not forget the 3/8" of OSB and 1/4" of floor leveling wood,) I got wet. You know what that means ................... I can put just about anything in any of the rooms and it will never creek, bend or warp. WATER SEX with 1000 lbs of tile .... mmmm now we`re thinking.

Need a Kleenex ?

Pictures would help
You say lath and wire .but it sound like an inside wall if you are dry walling

How long of section because the quickest might be just knock off the plaster with a chial .Then you dont need a dimond blade or mosonary .
Then you all so could chisal off the lath with a new sharp chisal
Even if it was stucco i would use a chisal all those other power tools make dust all over and cant fit that good up in a corner
All was a bout whaf tool fits ;-)

I only have 1 7/16 to work with. (or remove, depends how a person see`s it)

It is an inside wall, with plaster and wire, this I promise. NOT plaster and lath, that would be easy in comparison.

The section of interior wall is 8.5` x 10` give or take; I`m dealing with half the wall at 5` x 94" (so just shy of 8`; length wise)

You know a chisel might just work better then anything that has been proposed thus far. A chisel is cheap and I can sharpen with a stone and household oil. I wonder if massage oil counts ... hmmmm lol

Ya know, I could probably win any "Worst Handyman" competition, even against the blind, but this post really turns me on.
Too bad my door is so wickedly crooked I can`t open it to run over to your place right now!

hahaha Your cute, so far away yet so horny, oh what will a man do OH OH I know, https://perb.cc/advertising (city of choice)

 

[Jethro Bodine]

I opened up the floor joists between the top unit and the floor unit to discover, joists running north/south 16" on center and 14" below that joists running east/west. With a support been sandwiched together 6ply, (6, 2x12) with tongue and grove floor panels running opposite to the top layer of joists. (oh lets not forget the 3/8" of OSB and 1/4" of floor leveling wood,) I got wet. You know what that means ................... I can put just about anything in any of the rooms and it will never creek, bend or warp. WATER SEX with 1000 lbs of tile .... mmmm now we're thinking.

Need a Kleenex ?

Now I need some clean shorts and a cigarette and I don't even smoke.

 

[Annalise Lane]

I am impressed. I am a do it yourself gal, fix and renovate it yourself, but honestly do not know what I am doing. However I can fix most minor repairs on cars and and I can do plumbing thank you to a client for showing me.
I can replace a alternator, fuel pump, sensors, headlights (the while head light.) and do an oil change. minor fix its, and usually figure out what is wrong with the car. However house renos and repairs I just wing it an hope it works.
Good for you, being independant.

NOW your impressive, because I would not have a clue how to even change a light blub in my car. I dont clean it and defend my actions by saying to myself: Everyone has priorities and choices to make when spending money. I choose not to EVER learn about my car, and it's one of a few luxuries I allow myself without the guilt.

The other is: Restaurants My rule is : Eat what you want and drink what you like.

The rest of my life I live on Sales and Deals and do it myself.

Rock ON Girl

 

[plumbcrawl]

The key to cutting out this stuff out is to do it in 2 steps, first score the plaster with a utility knife in the shape you want to remove (use a square or straight edge and just go through a few times) use a hammer and bust out the plaster inside the line. then get a pair of aviation snips ( tin snips) and cut out the wire. Good luck! it is one of my leas favorite jobs...

 

[the old maxx50]

I lolked up this metal lath
I may of run into once ..but I agree scoring would help.. the point of a hooked carpet
knife would wirk better
.. You still would have trouble getting shears in there ... that why a wide sharp chisal works good
You hold it on an angle one side down and you get that shearing effect .You can cut through 1/16 inch
steel.. A small sharp ax works good too ...you have a handle to hold and beat on it with a hammer. A little roofers hachet with a strait cuting edge

You should check to sed if the metal lath stops at the wall and ceiling then all you would have to do
is scribe it .beat of a pafch and get in behind the lath with a flat bad . and pry it off
Still a slow firty job

 

[Annalise Lane]

The key to cutting out this stuff out is to do it in 2 steps, first score the plaster with a utility knife in the shape you want to remove (use a square or straight edge and just go through a few times) use a hammer and bust out the plaster inside the line. then get a pair of aviation snips ( tin snips) and cut out the wire. Good luck! it is one of my leas favorite jobs...

This is EXACTLY what I did today............................ Pictures Attached. I ran out for tin snips and didn't get back with the energy required to finish the job. Tomorrow is another day.

 

[Sleepmonger]

Oh wow!
Tin snips? I am sooo too lazy for that much work. The grinder would be out and I'd be done in the time it took me to compose this message. lol

Yep, that run looks pretty grinder friendly to me.
It has quite a lot of wire to bother cutting with snips.
To each their own though.

 

[the old maxx50]

th

The chisal would do that